At Watches & Wonders in Geneva, we had the pleasure of speaking with Sandrine Donguy, Product Marketing & Innovation Director at Vacheron Constantin. In an interesting conversation, she gave us an insight into the world of luxury watches. It was particularly interesting to learn how such a prestigious and renowned Maison as Vacheron Constantin manages the balancing act between tradition and innovation.
FACES: What’s currently the biggest trend regarding watches?
Sandrine Donguy: Sport segment first, trends toward material second, especially titanium, which is now on the same level as gold, and vintage watches third. We have introduced the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium, which is more robust and lightweight. It gives also alternative to steel material. We have completed the use of this new material approach with a skeletonized caliber. I would say it’s an innovation from the watchmaking expertise. Regarding vintage watches, we have re-edited the famous 222 model, dated from 1977, which has already encountered a huge welcome from our clients.
FACES: Are there any new watch features that we need to be aware of?
Sandrine Donguy: Les Cabinotiers is a unique offer on the whole market, including bespoke timepieces created on demand and watches proposed to our clients once conceived. When it comes to made-to-measure timepieces, our clients can ask for new caliber functions, combo of material and color, special métiers d’art and any other specification that matches with Vacheron Constantin’s identity. When it comes to unique watches created regardless on any command, we introduce an annual theme, which is in 2022 “Les Royaumes Aquatiques”. We have manufactured a brand-new movement for this assortment, Caliber 2757, which features three grand complications -minutes repeater, tourbillon, and split-second chronograph – in a 45-millimeter diameter case.
FACES: What’s the typical customer of Vacheron Constantin like?
Sandrine Donguy: We are known to seduce more men than women, but ladies represent a large part of our clientele, whether they come to buy a watch for themselves or for their partner…This year we have presented new Patrimony and Traditionnelle novelties dedicated to women and featuring new aesthetics and complications, which are already a success among our clients.
FACES: How do you describe your brand DNA?
Sandrine Donguy: Heritage first! Vacheron Constantin have been manufacturing watches since 1755. As Marketing and Innovation Director, I have to make sure that we both keep the past and inject modernity.
FACES: What I always liked about Vacheron Constantin is the fact that still not everybody knows about the brand. It’s not mainstream. I don’t want to wear the same watch as everybody else.
Sandrine Donguy: Our clients do not come to Vacheron Constantin by chance. They are connoisseurs, they are one of not many. Most of the time they have already purchased another watch. They are familiar with high watchmaking.
FACES: Where do you position yourself within the watch industry?
Sandrine Donguy: Vacheron Constantin is one of the ambassadors of high watchmaking. Our level of expertise, our technical and aesthetical excellence, our savoir-faire in terms of hand finishing, as well as the hallmark of Geneva certification witness our identity.
FACES: How does Vacheron Constantin define luxury?
Sandrine Donguy: Luxury is time. Taking time to imagine and conceive our watches. Taking time to hand-finish every single component. Taking time to pass on our savoir-faire through generations of watchmakers and artisans. Taking time to find the right design. Taking time to craft.
Our founding fathers were already keen on this approach. Our vocation is to perpetuate this.
FACES: So many people still don’t know what extraordinary craftmanship is behind luxury watches…
Sandrine Donguy: There are 15 different crafts just to finish a caliber. An enameled dial is one week of work for the master artisan to make the drawing, the painting, and all firings. The required dexterity is close to 10 to 15 years of mastery.
FACES: What is currently the biggest challenge that you, as a watch making brand, have to face?
Sandrine Donguy: The challenge is to answer our clients’ expectations. How do we entertain our clients through digital tools, 3D, and all kind of new ways of communicating? We have to be agile, to adapt, to anticipate and to ensure the experience provided to our clients is the best one. For example, we have digitalized the certificate of authenticity through blockchain on a smartphone application, available for any of our clients.
FACES: Is it still necessary to make difference between men’s and women’s watches?
Sandrine Donguy: There’s a trend around genderless approach but everyone is different! Some women, like me, love men watches. Some men like to wear watches with diamonds, especially in the Middle East, in the USA and in Asia. Some like round watches, others squared ones… Vacheron Constantin’s portfolio is very well-balanced.
